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Peak Mountain 3

Mescalote Tower

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Description

P1 - 5.10OB fist and OB button are nestled in the fractured base of a large, partially detached feature. Mescalote tower begins by climbing either of these splitter cracks. Belay at the chains or build a natural anchor in the crack nearby, where you will find a better stance.P2 - 5.9Carefully continue up and right through deteriorating rock. Climb through a highly featured, chossy alcove  to a large, cozy ledge.P3 - 5.8 Climb a varnished, low-angle hand crack which opens up into an offwidth and eventually spits you out at another large ledge. Pay attention to the large loose rocks at the top of the crack - they are easy to avoid.P4 - 5.9Make your way up a set of awkward cracks and burrow into the mountain. Climb a stellar and interesting squeeze chimney until you reach the top of the large tower.P5 - 5.10-Clip a handful of bolts through delicate movement on the varnished face. Pull the obvious roof over poor protection and continue up to a 2 bolt anchor.DESCENT: Rap the route with 2 ropes. 

Location

Approach as for OB button/fist.

Protection

Standard rack to 6. Doubles up to 4, triples of 2 and 3. Bring a Valley Giant 9 if you've got one


Routes in South Face