- Edit (TBD)
Description
Hard to say if all or sections of this route have been climbed before. Rock has a fresh feel and seemed unclimbed and a little scruffy. Please let me know if you climbed this before. Happy to change the name/route info here. Regardless a fun unique route with mid day shade.
P1
has fun, steep climbing! Follow a left-facing corner up to a
tooth-looking feature
in the center of the wall 25 feet up. From there, head up and right on a slanting finger crack. Along the way, enjoying some restful kneebars! The anchor is a large tree up and right of the route, 20 meters.
P2
is more of a approach pitch to pitch 3. Traverse right and up for 130 feet on easy ledge system/ 5.5 terrain, gain a short chimney, 5.8. Climb up chimney and into a hidden corridor ( behind "Country Boy Pillar"). Belay at first crack system on right wall above Chimney. Make a finger/hands size gear belay, 60 meters.
P3.
Climb a splitter crack on the right wall of the gully. Use the same crack as belay. This is a 120 foot long crack. This pitch jumps crack systems at midpoint in brown rock up and right at #2 Camalot pod. Follow finger and hand crack to the rim. Belay off a big tree 50 feet back from rim of the wall. This is fun, pumpy crack climbing on good rock, 35 meters.
Location
It is directly across from "
Pharoah's Child
" in the Renaissance Wall gully on the east-facing wall. It is on the left side of Renaissance Wall Gully on the bottom of gully.
Protection
A standard rack tips to a 3# Camalot.