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Peak Mountain 3

Idiocy of an Odyssey

FA an ascent, Jan 2015, DCuster & SRuff
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Wandering line aside, much excellent climbing. If the final pitches were as accessible as Ragged Edges, they would have a following.

P1 Up the left facing corner; more difficult than it looks. Traverse left on the spacious ledge to the oak tree stance below a finger crack that leads to an overhanging fist crack. The #5 camalot crack to the left is an alternate start at the same grade. ~30 meters, 5.10-

P2 Up the finger then fist crack. Belay on the rubble stance or continue on P3. Alternatively, step left, through and on oak trees; step across chasm to huecos and up P3. ~10 meters, 5.10-

P3 Step down left, and traverse left to the next, wide crack system. Up this to a belay at a ledge and an oak tree. ~30 meters, 5.7.

P4 Up the corner on the left side of the gulley system above the oak tree to a thin crack that angles left below a black headwall (it is possible to stay right and continue up the gulley; beware the agave top-out). From the left end of the headwall, ascend directly up. At the top of the headwall, walk back 10 meters to belay in oak trees. ~50 meters, 5.7.

P5 Up the obvious, daunting black gash. ~40 meters, 5.8

Descent Easy scrambling up and right with a move or two of down-climbing will gain the Geronimo rappel anchors.

Location

Rope up on a stone platform below a narrow, left-facing corner up and left of the start to SD Slot. This is below and just right of a prominent, steep chimney system that splits the wall.

Protection

Normal rack to #4 camalot. A #5 might be considered desirable.