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Peak Mountain 3

Judy's and Ellie's Grand Night Out

FA Deb Thompson, Leo Paik
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This line goes up the middle of Pulpit Rock just right of the obvious chimney,

Walk In The Park

. It is worth a run for the adventure of it. The name is in honor of a wonderful moonlight snowshoe adventure with friends Judy & Ellie out to

Bridalveil Falls

.

P1. Climb the trad version of

Griff-Orama

starting just to the left of the nadir of the rock, left of the groove that used to have the bolted line

Tiptoe Through The Tulips

. The crux is pulling up into the left side of the groove where you can get a low, small cam, but a fall here without that bolt is now a ledger. Belay up in a big hole in a huge flake, 5.8 PG-13/R, ~115'.

P2. This is the meat of the climb. Move up and slightly right onto a slab above a juniper bush. There is a decent runout on a slab up to the gritty crack/undercling where you can get a mediocre small cam perhaps 25 feet up. A #3 Camalot up in the undercling area lets you relax a bit. Now, it is interesting for another 25 feet protected with cams where your feet are on gritty slopers and you get rounded, lichened sidepulls for your hands. Once up in a pod, traverse easily right to a trough. Use long slings on any pro in the trough to reduce drag. Follow a squiggly crack to a decent stance, 5.8+ R, 130'.

P3. The crack looks much less steep up close, but it is longer than it looks. Move up using crack and face moves to the top, 5.8, 115'.

To descend, we slung a horn with a link above the chimney to rappel. The old sling under the boulder was chewed up by rodents.

Location

This ascends the middle of Pulpit Rock starting to the left of the nadir of the rock by ~60', heads up left of the overhang at mid-height, and finishes on the crack in darker brown rock near the top.

Protection

A rack with wires, cams to #4 Camalot.