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Peak Mountain 3

Finger of Fatwa

FA Scott Bennett and Blake Herrington, 2011
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch starts up a rightward trending ramp/flake (5.10 ish)

The second pitch; first crux pitch tackles a ringlock crack (.5-.75), up a stem corner, and steps wildly left to a belay under the roofs. (5.11c) The cracks are currently pretty dirty, which adds to the fun. We split this into two pitches, belaying beneath the stem corner, and were glad we did.

The next pitch underclings and jams out beneath the first roof, and then fights up through the second roof into a stellar jam and good stance in the chimney. (5.11b)

Trend right. Many variations and hand cracks eventually meet up with the MFB Left route and leads to the summit.

If you follow the description in Blake's book, the pitches are 40m 5.7 hand cracks and blocky terrain to another hand crack, followed by a 5.6 hand crack to join the MFB-left route on a rib.

Then scramble to the summit

Location

The route is on Middle Finger Buttress on Amphitheater Mountain. It starts on the left side of MFB, just right of the Left Route. It head up and through the wild looking roofs, climbs a couple more pitches of hand cracks, and then joins the MFB Left route before heading to the summit.

Protection

Wires, Doubles from tips to #2, single #3, #4