- Edit (TBD)
Description
Scramble up into a scoop on the left side of the prow. Clip the first bolt and make a big move off of a great jug up into some pockets and the second bolt. At the third bolt, cruxy moves on the very blunt arete lead to big move back left to a loose looking flake and the fourth bolt. A couple of gastons lead to a razor blade straight up off of the flake and the shared anchor on the right with Banana Peel.
The guide books have always said "for a true ascent, avoid the jugs on the right at the 3rd and 4th bolts", I'm not really sure what they are talking about unless they mean, don't climb Banana Peel and clip these bolts? I guess I was pretty close to the flake system of Banana Peel but it faces away from you and you don't really see it.
Location
Left of Banana Peel. Just right of the low point of the wall directly above a half dead but quite tall cactus.
Protection
4 bolts and a chain anchor shared with Banana Peel.
Routes in Major Wall
- 19Bananas on Acid5.12aSport