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Peak Mountain 3

Quarter Inch from Falling

FA Tim Toula, James Garrett, May 2007
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Perfectly named, this route is a full on adventure. A

Quarter Inch from Falling

has the potential to be over 15 feet of flying!

This line is the wildest of rides through the most varied of terrain. A fine mixture of trad and sport, cracks and face, the gear here is great, but don't expect a lot of it. With only a handful of bolts in about 130 feet, skills of all forms are deemed necessary. Multi-cruxed, this route really does have everything.

P1:

Climb

Quartermoon

or

Moonshine

to an anchor at a large ledge. Once here, its safe to say you can top out on the ledge and belay from the base of the climb.

P2:

From the

Quartermoon

ledge, this route starts up the obvious seam that splits the face just left of the chimney. Climb the seam to it's end and break right towards a lone bolt. Transfer right into another thin crack and work up, then left to the base of a wide, bulging crack. Follow this odd, wide feature to shallow ledge and land yourself at yet another mild rest at the base of a rounded prow. Forge on up the pumpy, cryptic face passing a few more bulges and bolts. Top out on a ledge and follow two more bolts to the tower's top and a two bolt anchor.

Fun, fantastic, and a little crazy, this is another JG/TT classic.

You can rap the line w/ a 70m rope, however it comes up short by about 5 feet, i'd recommend rapping into the

Quartermoon

chimney and then down climbing.

Location

A

Quarter Inch from Falling

starts on the large ledge above the first pitch of

Quartermoon

.

Protection

The new guide recommends a set of cams w/ extra 2's and 3's, however the biggest piece I placed was a .75 bd. I'd recommend a set of medium to large nuts and cams from .2 to .75 to keep it light. I'd also bring about 4 to 5 slings and 6 draws.


Routes in North Face


  1. 3
    Quarter Inch from Falling
    5.11-
    Sport · Trad