- Edit (TBD)
Description
Perfectly named, this route is a full on adventure. A
Quarter Inch from Falling
has the potential to be over 15 feet of flying!
This line is the wildest of rides through the most varied of terrain. A fine mixture of trad and sport, cracks and face, the gear here is great, but don't expect a lot of it. With only a handful of bolts in about 130 feet, skills of all forms are deemed necessary. Multi-cruxed, this route really does have everything.
P1:
Climb
Quartermoon
or
Moonshine
to an anchor at a large ledge. Once here, its safe to say you can top out on the ledge and belay from the base of the climb.
P2:
From the
Quartermoon
ledge, this route starts up the obvious seam that splits the face just left of the chimney. Climb the seam to it's end and break right towards a lone bolt. Transfer right into another thin crack and work up, then left to the base of a wide, bulging crack. Follow this odd, wide feature to shallow ledge and land yourself at yet another mild rest at the base of a rounded prow. Forge on up the pumpy, cryptic face passing a few more bulges and bolts. Top out on a ledge and follow two more bolts to the tower's top and a two bolt anchor.
Fun, fantastic, and a little crazy, this is another JG/TT classic.
You can rap the line w/ a 70m rope, however it comes up short by about 5 feet, i'd recommend rapping into the
Quartermoon
chimney and then down climbing.
Location
A
Quarter Inch from Falling
starts on the large ledge above the first pitch of
Quartermoon
.
Protection
The new guide recommends a set of cams w/ extra 2's and 3's, however the biggest piece I placed was a .75 bd. I'd recommend a set of medium to large nuts and cams from .2 to .75 to keep it light. I'd also bring about 4 to 5 slings and 6 draws.
Routes in North Face
- 3Quarter Inch from Falling5.11-Sport · Trad