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Peak Mountain 3

Ellen Pea

FA Erik Lawson and Lee Arden Pete
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

1. 5.10a. 40 m. Climb left facing corner to belay stance just below  left slanting twin cracks.

2. 5.10d. 50 m.  Follow diagonal twin cracks to an immaculate, inset dihedral with a challenging thin crux towards the end.

Walk left approximately 20m to the start of the next pitch.

3. 5.11a. 50 m. Climb corners and flakes straight up to the large left-slanting ceiling/arch feature. Navigate left and up until it is possible to layback-undercling-stem the severely leaning corner crack of the arch. The crux is the exit arch, with a tricky lip sequence. A long,complex pitch.

4. 5.11c. 20 m. Undercling a short, left-leaning arch until you can pull out right on face holds. Make a difficult step up move past a second bolt and on to the "supercave".

5. 5.11b. 30 m. Exit the left side of the cave via a short overhanging wall aiming for the left-facing corner an early crux eases to fun laybacking to a pedestal belay ledge.

6. 5.10a. 56 m. Climb steep corners and ramps up the dominant weakness to the top of the wall.

Descent:

Two ropes are needed to rappel. Almost every anchor is bolted. Some diagonal rappel shenanigans are needed to avoid being stranded. Alternatively top out the formation and descend strightforward 3rd class ramp (climbers left of the wall) to regain approach gully.

The above is from squamishclimbingsource.com with minor changes.

Protection

Double cams from tips to #2 BD, wires,  extra extendable draws.