Calling Wolfgang

This route is another gem with a storied recent history (see my comment below). It demands four stars but has seen very little traffic over the years. After an initial gear placement climb airy 5.11 edging past three bolts. An easier section in the middle takes a small to medium sized nut before bolts appear again and the difficulty begins to ramp up. Suffice it to say that with relatively few ascents, just where and what comprises the crux is somewhat debatable, but it is most certainly in the vicinity of the last few bolts. For me at 5'7", there was a reachy move from nebulous, bad holds around the second-to-last bolt, followed by a high-step maneuver that seemed as though it should've been easy but wasn't. One attempt made me throw my shoes in the bushes nearby while the next saw me redpoint, so it probably comes down to minutiae and the vagaries of tricky "steep low-angle" climbing. As with most Index routes, it is somewhat temperature dependent and even sunlight filtered heavily by trees on those 80% RH, 80 degree summer afternoons can make an appreciable difference to ones experience and ego.

The pitch above this is called Straight to Voicemail. See entry for that route.

This is the second route left of Davis Holland, beginning in a scruffy looking crack/ledge system before departing right onto a steep, clean bolted face.

Bolted except for the very beginning and a 20 foot section in the middle of the route. These two placements may be optional, but I appreciated the insurance they gave me, the first against decking straightaway at the beginning, pulling my belayer down the hill into the vertical woods below and the second against a huge fall on just under vertical rock if my foot happened to slip on some errant lichen. To take advantage of the aforementioned insurance, bring a green or red C4 and a few small to medium nuts along with the 12 quickdraws. The anchor at the top may appear strange but it is a 1/2" bolt chained vertically to an eye bolt with a gigantic quick link on it: you could probably hang an aircraft carrier from this rig.