Southeast Chimney Route

Classic 1962 route. The first 2 pitches are quality. The 3rd pitch follows an old bolt ladder to the summit.

P1: Start the route with a 5.9 move followed by some easy climbing moving left that leads to a steep fingertip crack that offers some nice stemming. Maybe of touch of 5.9+ or easy 5.10 during the stemming phase. This leads to the ability to get into the offwidth on the right, which may be the variation first climbed by Jim Dunn, Billy Westbay, and Stewart Green in 1971. Continue up this 5.9 - 5.10 offwidth to a nice ledge and belay.

P2: Move right and do an awkward move to reach another OW/squeeze chimney. Follow this up to a steep, but easy roof that gets you to the saddle.

P3: Climb the old bolt ladder.

The SE chimney is easy to find. Easier than the talus cone.

Use caution on the descent. The second and subsequent folks to rappel need to USE EXTRA CAUTION to avoid knocking any loose debris down onto the climber(s) on the saddle. It is a small stance, and direct hits are almost guaranteed. I took one. Lucky it didn't break my femur. Stars . . . .

Standard desert rack, plus some extra wide gear. You might want to bring a couple of tricks in case the bolt ladder is in poor shape/missing some gear.