- Edit (TBD)
Description
Lots of fun interesting moves all the way.
Up slabby rock into base of dihedral. Work your way up the dihedral (with some thoughtful "real dihedral" moves), then up through the cap. Then easier (passing to right of small roof) up to base of a less-sharply defined right-facing cornser / dIhedral. Up that higher dihedral to the top.
. . . Start Variation: (5.8+): Arete which forms the right edge of the dihedral has some thoughtful "real arete" moves. Start roughly below or below right of dihedral. Scramble a bit up large "teethy" rocks to reach base of arete. Work your way up that, then rejoin main route.
name:
Valse Viennoise
is a popular multi-pitch route in sector Grand-Orgue in the (bigger) Switzerland climbing area.
warning
: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own new name for this climb.
Location
Bottom is on the wide grassy ledge that rises diagonal left-to-right through the middle of the cliff face.
Below left from the base of light-rock dihedral / open book six to eight feet wide, with a cap about 20 ft up. A bit right from below the central cliff-top tree, and about 40 ft right from below deepest highest "point" of the big roof.
See on this Photo
. . . .
See on this Photo
Protection
No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading.
Top-Roping: The three-bolt anchor on the left side of the top of the cliff is too far away from the top of this route, but there is a substantial low tree / bush back a few feet from the top edge of the cliff, which could be used with a static line.
. . (There is also a directional bolt on the cliff face below left from that low tree / bush -- not useful for this route itself, but might allow some quick convenient "playing" on other rock after finishing this route).
For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see
Description page for this sector 1
.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.