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Peak Mountain 3

Cryptogramic Forest

FA P1 Mike Friedrichs, George Jamison 1990. P2 Dave Medara, John Merriam 1996.
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Description

Wingate doesn't get much better than on this beautiful tower.

P1 - Climb a long and sustained crack through just about every size to a big belay ledge. It starts thin and widens as it goes with the occasional chimneyish pod. 165', 5.11

P2 - Climb a sandy wide crack in a dihedral to a ledge system. Follow the ledge system clear around to the other side of the tower and head up the first reasonable weakness to the summit. 75', 5.9+

Location

Approach as for the Lightbulb. After working your way through some cliff bands onto the bench the Lightbulb is on, turn right and head up into the side canyon. You can see the tower from the road easily enough.

Protection

Bring pretty much everything from small cams to big pieces. The first pitch is long. 4-5 sets from .5-3 camalots with a few smaller pieces down to green alien and a single set of big cams.


Routes in Wisdom Tooth


  1. 1
    Cryptogramic Forest
    5.11
    Trad