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Peak Mountain 3

Pyrogenous

FA Mitch Merriman, John Eminger
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The double crack on the upper half drew me in and is good, but the lower half is sketchy. The start is face climbing protected by 2 pins in a tight seam. I fell just before reaching the 2nd pin when a seemingly solid looking hand hold ( softball size) came off and I went sailing. If I had been on lead this would have been a bad ground fall onto shattered loose scree and boulders. This bit is followed by a flared very hard to protect sort of chimney, move left to big scoop ledge, then the nice double crack above.

Location

Just right of Nuts and Bolts with it's easy to find 2 bolts.

The crack is about 40-50' of hands and fingers, some fun layback moves on the finger sections.

A mysterious new 1/2" SS anchor exists on top.

The R rating could be removed with some more cleaning of the bottom and maybe a bolt between the pins.

Protection

2 pins, cams are mostly in the #.5 Camalot size.


Routes in Nuts and Bolts Wall


  1. 2
    Pyrogenous
    5.10a
    Trad