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Peak Mountain 3

East Wilmans Spire

FA Fred Beckey & Herb Staley, 1945
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A classic, short alpine rock climb with some moderate scrambling and a short roped section.

P1 (5.5) - Belay from the east notch and climb up the east side of the spire a short ways, then downclimb a 5.5 crack 20 ft to the ramp.

P2 (easy 5th) - Ascend the ramp up and west to the corner where it ends, and set up a belay.

P3 (5.6) - Climb up the short slab to a platform that leads to a 1-inch crack (pass two fixed pins). Joining the crack is 5.6, the crack itself is 5.4. The crack leads to a ledge; from here, head a little east to the summit.

Descent: two single-rope rappels (from a bolt on the summit and a slung station east of the first crack), then descend the ramp and climb back over the 5.5 crack to the notch.

Protection

Set of nuts and cams, maybe hexes (basically a light alpine rack), and plenty of slings for rope drag. 50m+ rope... it can be combined into two pitches with a 60 or 70, but the meandering nature of the route will cause more drag.

If in early season, bring ice axe and crampons, as the gully can get fairly steep.


Routes in Wilmans Spires


  1. 1
    East Wilmans Spire
    5.6
    Alpine · Trad