- Edit (TBD)
Knappweed Herbicide (Part II)
Description
Start with
Knappweed Herbicide
(.10b), & clip the right anchor bolt for protection. Continue in the same pitch over three small roofs to an anchor with chains & carabiners. This climb involves some powerful & continuous climbing. Here's a more detailed description of the moves: undercling the rounded belly of the first roof, & reach a hold above it. Do a one arm pull to a slot underneath the second roof. Pull up, get your feet on small footholds at the lip of the first roof, & reach over the second roof to crimps. This is the end of the first crux. It helps to be tall on this section. Shorter climbers get shut down.
Now for the second crux- reach the sloping horizontal break below the third roof, & get over the second roof. Reach jugs in a horizontal break just above the third roof. Originally the second crux was harder, but after
Surrounded By Reality
was established, a nice hold out left was exposed that makes a great heel hook for the left foot. Finish up .12a moves to reach a shelf just above the anchor.
Location
This is above
Knappweed Herbicide
(what I call Part I).
Protection
An additional 6 bolts - a total of 12 clips / 2 chains & biners.
Routes in Easter Rock
- 5Knappweed Herbicide (Part II)5.13aSport