Dark Side of Liberty

The Dark Side of Liberty might be the only route on the east face where your arms will actually get pumped quicker than your toes!  Overall the climbing isn’t very similar to the other free routes on the east face; it is steeper, cleaner and more physical.  From the ground the rock appears to be of dubious quality but upon closer inspection it is actually some of the best rock on all of Liberty Bell.  The first 5 pitches are characterized by yellow and orange lichen on steep exposed faces.

Pitch 1 (5.12+):  Starts off on a little bit of funky rock but by the 3rd bolt things improve.  The climbing builds throughout the whole pitch, finishing with a somewhat cryptic V6.  Absolutely amazing rock on the last 5 bolts.

Pitch 2 (5.13-):  There is almost zero fluff on this pitch.  The moves are engaging from the 1st bolt all the way to the anchors.  The first half climbs up and around an orange dyke on interesting holds.  This dyke leads to short horizontal roof that requires blind reaches and heel hooks.  After pulling the roof the climbing gradually eases off but not as much as you want it to.

Pitch 3 (5.11):  Step left off the belay and around the arete to a short and easy hand crack leading to a larger arete.  A few of the moves are somewhat funky and surprisingly hard on this pitch (at least if you are short…)  Still an enjoyable pitch though.

Pitch 4 (5.13+):  The money pitch.  Scramble up the ramp to the left till a short little flake.  Pass a few bolts with some little bouldery moves and then reach right to the start of the flake.  Layback and jam up the beautiful finger finger crack for 45ft. till a perfect jug flake.  Milk the rest before setting off on the V9 or V10 crux of the route.  Small feet and small crimps lead to more physical climbing pulling over the bulge.  A final mantel leads to a short finishing slab.  Without beta or chalk marks, this pitch can feel like 5.14.

Pitch 5 (5.11):  Ramble up the slab to the huge corner and roof looming overhead.  Most of this pitch is jamming or laybacking on good holds.  The climbing gets steeper just before traversing out and right around the off-width roof.  Undercling and layback the OW till it is possible to squeeze in it. Thankfully good feet and hands are abound and the climbing quickly becomes easy.

Pitch 6 (5.11):  Lead up a short bit of 4th class and move the belay to a bolt by a tree.  Climb left up a ramp till it is possible to mantel up and right gaining the top of a large flake.   Place a few small cams before setting off on somewhat insecure funky jams.  Eventually the difficulty tapers off and better locks are found.

Pitch 7 (5.9):  Climb straight up small ledges through a little loose rock.  A bit runout but never that hard.  Gain the huge open corner and hang a right on fun and easy 5.9 laybacking.

Pitch 8 (5.11):  Jam and stem up the left side of the overhanging open chimney till it is possible to stem out right.  Try to avoid the large wedged block near the end of the pitch.  Setup the belay on the bolts out left to avoid pinching the rope in the large block.

Pitch 9 (5.10):  Make a few wide stems up the chimney to clip the fist bolt, then step left around the arete.  Easy and enjoyable face climbing leads up and left towards the arete that divides the east and north face as well as the intersection with Thin Red Line

Pitch 10 (5.8):  Climb easy but loose blocks just left of the arete. Possible to link with pitch 9 if little protection is placed.

150m of 4th class leads to the true summit or rappel down the route using a single 80m rope.

Route starts on top of the car sized chockstone guarding the gulley at the base of the east face.

Doubles from green C3 to #2 Camalot

Single #3 (only needed on pitch 5)

Set of small to med nuts

8 draws and 4 shoulder lengths

80m rope if rapping with single rope