South West Couloir

The long, steep walled, upper coulior caps off a fish hook shaped route. Sometimes in springtime, this is the nicest, most chill, way up and down Mt Moran. The steep side walls and a SW exposure keep the sun off most of the route for awhile. Later, in sun or storm it can make a long, partially channelled avalanche.

The crux, exiting the top of the coulior, is a short but 5th class chockstone. 5.5, 8m.

The top of the route is classic unroped climbing shared by the northwest face, Triple Glaciers route.

From Leigh Lake follow climber/game trail from campsite bear box at the inlet. Hike under South Face and Sandinista Coulior, better in gullies 200 m from wall, enter coulior, find flat white snow before mid May, climb to top of coulior, quick rope around crux, emerge on the North Face, climb and scramble to top.

A few thin pieces and a thin, short rope, crampons and ice tool.