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AKA THE OPTIMIZER or Tombstone crack
A sick right facing corner that lures you in with an easy start then turns up the dial into tight hands and rattling fingers. Occasional hand jams help keep you upward, but then flare to an OW finish. Cruxes abound. 1st crux is below the bail nut. Second is above it where the crack goes to finger stacks (least secure). Third is diving into the offwidth. Two bolts for an anchor with some West Desert trash on them. Superb quality throughout!
Location
The obvious right crack on the south face of the Tombstone.
Protection
Double C4s .3-3, bring an extra tight hands gear and a #5 for the finish. There's a fixed bail nut about half way, below the crux. I wouldn't whip on it.
Routes in The Tombstone
- 1Redtail5.11Trad