IED

For those unfamiliar with the term, Staff Sergeant William James specialized in diffusing IEDs (Improvised Explosive Devices) in the Oscar-winning movie "The Hurt Locker." You might need to set one off to send this thing.

This Winter we had a good crew of folks who were motivated to posse up at this wall and get busy with some new routes. This is one of 8 additions we collectively put up in January. Many thanks to all those involved.

The route is amazing, and I feel very fortunate to have stumbled upon it. I think it is comparable to Burl Dog in style, quality and difficulty. I would love for some folks to go repeat it, as I think it is one of the better routes I've found and I think it measures up nicely on the tiny crack test-piece circuit.

The climbing is mostly very thin and the crux is technical lie-backing reminiscent of Burl Dog but just a tad easier I think. I'll let others help level out the grade. There is a good ol' fashioned off-width section after the crux as well that adds to the character, but it has a finger crack barely within reach in the back so big gear is not necessary. One can simply run it out or plug in a finger-sized cam deep in there. Imagine carrying a BD #6 through the crux of Burl Dog and you'll see what I mean about foregoing gear of that size.

Another note; In the crux it would be difficult to stop and place gear, as you're lie-backing for all you're worth and the crack tapers to next to nothing. Therefor I think it should be said that this route could be considered a little PG-13 for Indian Creek when truly giving it hell. If you blow it making the final moves of the crux you're taking a ride onto some small gear. Proceed accordingly. Someone stronger could likely stop and fiddle in a purple or grey c3, but I think it's wiser to just make a run for the tips crack after placing your last sensibly-sized cams.

This route is located in a distinct red shield all by itself. It is left of Hurt Locker and right of the two .10+ routes Locked Out and Master Lock. The photos will help with identification.

A healthy serving of tiny cams from purple to red c3/green Alien, along with likely three or four pieces in the BD .3 /yellow Alien/.4 range. That's about it. If you are considering going into C1 mode you likely need more than that, but if you belong on this route you should be able to ascertain from the ground what you need. A 60m rope works fine.