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Peak Mountain 3

Equinox, direct

FA Harold Hall & Greg Orton, 2018.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: climb the arête (5.8) into and through a short overhang (.10a direct) ending at a large ledge with belay/rap anchors, or about 10 feet below the overhang before the route steepens follow an alternative bolt line to right (5.6 indirect) around the overhang then coming back to the direct line and first set of belay/rap anchors.P2: follow the bolt line straight up the steep arête (5.7-.8 easier than it looks from the belay) to an overhanging bulge near the top. from here either climb onto the bulge (tricky crux 5.10a) and continue to the top, or follow the thin awkward ledge under the overhang to the left inside corner crack (5.7) finishing the climb on the rest of Bare Naked Solstice Party (5.7-8).Rappel off down backside (one 50 or 60m rope), or rappel down Bare Naked Solstice Party on front south side (two raps with 60m rope, or one rap with 70m rope).

Location

from Southcomb follow the trail left past the Cleft opening and Edge of Fear to the south side and the base of the Clock Tower. Equinox begins on the right side arete just uphill and to the right of Bare Naked Solstice Party.

Protection

glue-in bolts and rap rings