We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Master Shake

FA EC, Sept. 2017
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Yet another central Shore epic 13a. Some of the best climbing on the wall but the bottom is still a little "fresh," although it should clean up with a bit of traffic.

Like it's neighbors to the left it's easiest to break it down into sections. Some 5.11 warm-up for the first 5 bolts will see you to the hardest climbing on the route - back to back V5 boulder problems getting to and clearing the small roof. The seventh bolt is very hard to clip so you may want a double or triple draw there. I figured it's 12d to the 9th bolt.

Next, a bolt of easy climbing and a great rest leads to more difficulties and some really good rock. The next 5 bolts are continuous and amazing low 12 climbing with a stinger move or two thrown in as well. Probably a 12c pitch on its own.

Another 3 bolts of easier climbing will see you to the final test and the redpoint crux - a V4 slab boulder problem 100ft up. It wouldn't be too bad it your feet were fresh, but they won't be.

So, in summary, 12d into 12c into V4 slab. Full value and very good.

Location

Center of the Shore. Look for the left facing dihedral. Master Shake begins in the white rock just left of the dihedral and climbs into it at the 5th bolt.

Protection

20 bolts to anchor with locking biners. 70 meter rope is mandatory!