Cry for Merlin

Descend via the standard rap route as for Excalibur (this will be a hard swing to the right if you start at the crux pitch). Belay at the right set of anchor bolts (the left set being for Excal) and ramble up the easy start (5.8) to where the business starts on the slab. Awkward and balancy moves take you out the crux through a well protected, slightly overhanging, sharp arete. Pass up the last bolts before the belay to avoid some serious rope drag, or take double ropes to not have to worry about it and just clip the bolts. The exit pitch is trad 5.9 that pros well and is an easy finish.

Located just to the right of Excal, this is the obvious arete with the best position of all the climbs on this wall.

set of draws, trad rack up to #2 or Camalot. 2 x 50m doubles is great.