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Peak Mountain 3

Under Control

FA Jimmy Schaefer
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Far left of Birdland is a tower of sandstone detached from the main wall.  After climbing to the top of the tower, we looked into the chasm behind and saw a splitter lightning bolt crack emerging from the depths.  It looked steep, sharp, and clean, so we got down and had ourselves a look.The left side of the tower forms a cave with a chimney above.  This part is pretty cruxy, so get ready for a struggle right off the bat.  Chimney above and head in to belay near the base of a wide pod in the left wall.Again, start this pitch with more struggle and surmount the pod to gain the crack.  The crack is pretty splitter, but this is Red Rock so it's surrounded by tons of faceholds to keep it tame.  As you near the top, keep your eyes open to the left.  Eventually traverse left to a massive ledge to belay.  Above the ledge is a tree. Scramble up to it and double rope rap back to the packs.  Alternatively,  scramble across ledges left to Out of Control.

Location

Start in the large cave formed by the left side of the sandstone tower.  (The right side is defined by a cave start for Nowhere Man).

Protection

Singles .3-6. Doubles .5-3. Bring more if trying to combine pitches.