Sloppy Seconds

Climb up past a face and left-facing corner to a small sandy ledge. Walk to the corner, and climb directly up. Stay in the corner the entire climb, placing protection where you can. Thoughtful moves on less than stellar rock get you through a small overhang to a nice bolted anchor. This climb would be excellent if the rock quality was better. Tread carefully as you climb past a couple of large, loose blocks near the top.

Start as for Grey Cat and Leela at Midway area #1. Clip the bolt or not---a .75 C4 works well to protect the corner crack. If climbing directly up the corner, the moves are considerably more difficult than 5.8.

Single rack works well. Cams alone protect the entire route.