Written Exam

True old school adventure. There are just enough bolts to keep you off the ground (probably). There is just enough loose rock to make for genuine excitement. And the bolts are located near stances, NOT near crux moves.

Start on a boulder, 15 feet below the first bolt. Delicately climb over a detached flake to make it to the first clip. Five bolts of slab climbing lead to ledges and then to the rappel tree. The 5.9 crux of the route occurs well above the first bolt, just before reaching the second. If holds give way and you fall, you'll need an attentive belay to keep you off the ground. There is a second, poorly protected crux just below the fifth bolt. Generally, the rock quality is better if you follow a line to the right of the bolts.

The route starts 40 feet to the left of Tender Flakes. The best way to access the start is to rappel Tender Flakes. It is possible but inadvisable to scramble up the gully (through a nearly impassable bay tree) to the start of the route.

All five aging lead (as in Pb) drop-in bolts have been replaced with shiny 1/2" Rawls. You might also like TCUs or other small gear to place between the fifth bolt and the tree.