Pony Express

One of the few well protected multi-pitch climbs in the canyon having chain rap/belay stations all the way up and several challenging pitches. This climb was envisioned by Bobby Model around 2006. The first pitch is a relic from an earlier era that no one seems to know who pioneered. It had no anchor or logical finish. Bobby used this intro pitch to reach the outstanding 2nd pitch leaning finger crack, which was the goal and the obvious impetus for creating the entire climb. The short wandering 3rd and 4th pitches are cool especially the short hand crack on the 4th pitch. They may be combined into one long S-curve, using some extendable slings. An accident in South Africa in 2006 left Bobby in a coma and he eventually passed on in 2009 leaving this line unfinished. The 5th and 6th pitches were added in 2014 by Mike Snyder following Bobbys original intended path.

Pitch 1: Begin at a flat grassy area and follow a crack system up to an SMC bolt with an old red sling. Pass a new bolt and climb to a small tree, sling that and continue up into a V groove to find the chain anchors. 5.8, 100 feet

Pitch 2: Lead out leftward passing two bolts and a fixed nut to access the steep finger crack. Place 1/2" sized cams while burling through this to reach the lip and a rest. Continue on, following the left slanting crack and tricky gear placements. The chains are in an alcove at a decent ledge. 5.11+, 80 feet

Pitch 3: Wander up and to the right following grooves to a two bolt anchor. 5.9, 40 feet

Pitch 4: Continue climbing up and to the right to reach the cool hand crack. Climb this 25' feature and find a chain anchor. Pitch 3 and 4 may be combined with some longer slings to straighten out rope drag. 5.8, 40 feet

Pitch 5: Step left and scramble up a blocky section to reach a two bolt crux section before the crack opens back up to accept gear again. Follow the crack up and left ward placing small gear in various pods. There is a bolt protecting a mantle before the next chain anchor. 5.10a, 80'

Pitch 6: Follow the crack system up and left to the summit. Some tricky moves and again small gear protect the climbing well. 5.10+, 80'

Rappel the entire route using an alternate rap station toward the bottom to reach the ground. Alternatively you can walk off, although there is some hair-raising exposure traversing the summit ridge. Easy but exciting!

Walk West on the Hayden Arch Bridge Road until you pass through the tunnel. Turn left immediately and hop down the boulders to the smooth flat boulders in the river. Cross the river at the constriction. Make your way over to the right side of this tall wall.

Standard rack including nuts and cams. Doubles on finger size pieces is helpful. chain anchor/belay stations.