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Description
This route was an endeavor to do. Climb the 5.8
Unknown
to the ledge and anchors. From here, you clip a small head in a seam and do a difficult move to a 1/4 buttonhead. From this stance, I did some delicate traversing to a seam where I could get some gear. Keep traversing until you can climb up to the slight ledge below a bulge and some more 1/4"ers. Some steep and strenuous climbing leads to small gear and easier terrain. Continue up until it is easy to traverse back left and to a ledge with a bolted anchor.
The rock is good, but the wandering nature of the climb makes it a route finding adventure.
Location
This route is above
Unknown
, 5.8, and right of
Unnamed
, 5.11. Look for the old bolts on the face.
Protection
Slings! Lots of slings or you will be slayed by the rope drag. (2) #3s for the first part of the
Unknown
, 5.8. A set of C3s, nuts, and a few fingers to small hands.
Routes in Zone 3
- 6Wanderer5.11-Sport · Trad