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Peak Mountain 3

Flesh-Eating Gnats

FA Peter Gram, Brian Riepe, Tom MacFarlane, Chris Pollard, 5/89
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the original sport climbs to go in at White Rock, "Gnats" climbs an amazing arete with possible moves on either side using pockets and small ledges. At the beginning, bypass the undercut roof to the left and reach around the arete to the right to clip the out-of-sight 1st bolt. (Some people clip the 1st bolt of Pathogenic Cysts instead, but the rope doesn't run as well.) It's a bit intimidating to get to the 2nd bolt but easier than it looks and the clipping stance is good. From here, look for pockets on both sides of the arete and some rest stances on the arete itself. The crux is a bigger move at the last bolt, where the rock becomes less featured and steeper.

Why's it called Flesh-Eating Gnats ?? Climb here in late summer evenings... you'll see.

Location

Prominent arete between the two most obvious dihedrals (Ralph's Dilemma and Revenge).

Route 10 in the beta photo.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.