- Edit (TBD)
Dystopia
Description
This boulder is a link up between the start of Skin O' My Teeth V9 and the crux of Countdown to Extinction V10. A bit contrived, but a fun recycle move on some small sandstone holds brings you to the perfect compression section of Countdown, one of the best cruxes I've ever climbed. The goal of this line is to capture the some of the best movement on the boulder. Minus stars for it being a contrived link up, but plus stars for not having a rock at the start like Countdown.
Location
This route climbs the prow facing the creek. Low start on the huge jug on the left side of the prow. Traverse right through the small holds then bust straight up to a good edge/gaston that faces the wrong way. Finish straight up from here, through the crux of Countdown and into Le Bernd. If you go straight up by means of a left hand side pull above the start jug rather than traversing right, you're climbing Le Bernd Sit V5/6.
Protection
Pad, flat landing