- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a well protected and fully bolted climb that has been thoroughly cleaned and houses high quality rock up the middle of the south face of summerlin peak (lake mead buttress). P1 90’ 5.10a Start directly below and slightly to the right of an obvious open book. Step right after a horizontal crack, then left into the main corner. Steep stemming at the top leads to good ledge. 9 boltsP2 100’ 5.8+ Climb straight off the anchor to the left most bolt line, this trends left up the face then back right to a good ledge. 9 boltsP2v 80’ 5.10b Head straight up the face on steep but good holds to the same ledge. This pitch is still a bit fragile and maybe be a bit harder than 10b now. 6 boltsP3 150’ 5.10a Step left off the belay and follow the obvious bolt line up the epic face up past rap anchor to ok ledge. 16 boltsP4 70’ 5.0 Scramble straight up to huge ledge with anchor at the base of the next wall. 0 boltsP5 140’ 5.8 straight up through a small roof past a rap station to a decent ledge. 10 bolts*Move the belay across the big dirt ledge to an anchor at the base of the next pitch. P6 70’ 5.8+ Straight up off the belay on steep jugs to a high first clip, sharp face climbing leads to a ledge. Inobvious moves left of the bolts then back right lead to easier climbing to an anchor at the top of the wall. 7 boltsDescent: 7 raps straight down the route with a single 60M rope (do not skip any chains). With doubles, make a single rope rappel down the last pitch then 3 double rope raps to the ground. It’s also possible to hike off the summit and end up at the buckskin trailhead off cliff shadows parkway. Another hiking option is to take the descent down skiers left outlined in the other routes on lake mead buttress. This descent brings you back to the same side and would filter back to the same trailhead. If there are other groups on route you should consider hiking off.
Location
Approach: Park here (36.1920282, -115.3469587). Head up the mountain bike trail “cleod 9” then turn right onto the “secret menu”. Once directly below the face there will be a few ridges, take the left most ridge that heads directly up towards the face. There will be a line of cairns that feed into a trail that takes the path of least resistance to the base of the route. 45 min to an hr
Protection
Single 60M rope, 17 draws, a couple alpine draws could be helpful. Helmets!