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Peak Mountain 3

Wild Kingdom

FA: McMillan, Rotert '78. FFA: McMillan, Robinson '79
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UPDATED 

Description

Mega Classic both for the climbing and the history. A must do in NC.

P1: climb up the low angled rock to the ledge below the pin stack. Climb past the pin stack up the dihedral past 2 bolts and then pull the roof. Traverse right to a stance. Climb easier funky rock with sparse pro, wandering right then left to the belay under the Billboard.

P2: Climb the bolted Billboard section to a crack with gear. Make sure you get some good gear here. Either finish left (5.8 PG13) or do Tim Fisher's 5.12a(5.10R) optional finish (looks GREAT).

Location

Fire Wall. It will be obvious what you climb.

Protection

Some bolts, some pins, plenty of spice. Bring brass nuts, offsets if you got em, and microcams, in addition to a normal rack. Not many larger cams on the route. There is a bolted anchor to lower off after the dihedral on P1 (nice crag-style route), or another bolted anchor for the belay under the P2 Billboard (if you're going all the way).