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Peak Mountain 3

Top Down Design

FA Tod Anderson and Richard Wright, 1993
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Originally conceived to fire through the small roof at 65 feet, Top Down Design heads that direction just right of the large pine tree and adjacent to

Completion Backword Principle

. A slew of 5.10 moves leads to an awkward, smearing crux around a very blank seeming bulge. Pull around this thing on thin friction, stepping left, into a small seam. Things run a bit after the last clip, but the edges improve and the climbing is no harder than 5.10. The belay is just below the roof. Frankly, we pulled the roof on top rope a bit to the left, significantly off the existing line, however, when climbing got scotched in this part of the world a lot really fine climbing went undone, and we are the worse for losing these lines. One could easily establish a line between

CBP

and TDD that pulled the roof and would turn up a full 100 foot route of stellar quality.

Protection

QDs only. This 60 foot route needs only half a dozen draws.