Cruising for Bulgar

Once you reach Sobo, the Southwest facing prow is obvious. Cruising for Bulgar is a stellar crack system that ascends the center of the prow. Every size imaginable comes at some point along this steep and sustained route. Fingers, hands, fists and even a wide move or two.

Begin on thin moves near the ground, getting into a crack and flake system for a few feet, then up into the good crack, which is mellow for a short time, until an obvious crux (1.5"-2.0" cam or brown tricam) stops you cold. Beat that crux and then fight through the next 20' of sustained effort to reach the low angle moves. Make low angle moves to get to the summit ledge and belay.

The summit belay is most easily set on a few stoppers and 3" cams - so take an extra of that size.

The crack is very rough and will leave the hands marked and sore if you don't tape up. Although I do not generally tape, I wish I had both times I've done this route, and I strongly encourage you to do so too.

A set of TCUs, cams up to a #4 friend, and a set of stoppers.