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Peak Mountain 3

Cafe au Lait

FA D Quinn
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Description

This one surprised me because the bottom of the route looks chossy and is a little loose in places but the climbing is super cool moderate chimney climbing and the rock gets better as you keep climbing. It's also a bit longer than it looks.

Climb the chimney clipping bolts on the left past some bad rock to a good stance continue up the chimney as the rock gets better clip bolts on the right. Many options for beta i ended up pulling a corkscrew move which is always fun. After the chimney ends climb moderate rock to the chains on the left.

Location

Chimney just right of Juan Valdez (5.10b).

Protection

8 bolts to anchor (guide book says 7, but it's incorrect) . Long draws on last 2 bolts help.