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Peak Mountain 3

Teetotaler

FA B. Hansen, R. Lietner, 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb is pretty fun and quite technical.

Start this climb up and right of

Grins

, just left of a series of short, right-facing dihedrals and pillars. Climb up some so-so rock to get to an arete with 4 bolts. Clip the first bolt and then work both sides of the arete. The multiple crux moves involve heel-hooking the arete and palm-smearing around it at times. The moves are more insecure than

Last Laugh

, in my opinion, but pretty fun!

Protection

Per

Brian Hansen

: this was originally led with one bolt.

4 QDs plus a few runners for the top. There is some distance between the bolts to be considered, but the route seems safe enough.

This is a reasonable top-rope from the anchors up and right of the top of

Grins

. You may want to rap off instead of lowering, however.

You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.