- Edit (TBD)
Description
Deseret Moon is a sweet, long splitter hand crack that is guarded by some interesting, difficult climbing off the ground. Approach by heading left along the wall for a good distance (300m?). Just past Tom Cat (a nice hand crack in a varnished corner) is this line.
The direct start is difficult 5.11 stemming up a stem box to a roof of sorts, protected by tiny cams and, formerly, a bolt (now just a hole). The indirect start heads up loose but easy cracks to the left and then traverses over to the ledge just above the direct start. From there you head up a finger crack and flake to a rest before embarking on the gorgeous perfect hands splitter to the anchors.
Two ropes to rap.
Protection
Single set of cams from small to #1 Camalot + several #2 Camalots. Either a #4 Camalot or a bunch of TCU's depending on the start you take.
Routes in Cat Wall
- 21Deseret Moon5.11Trad