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Peak Mountain 3

Tiers of Fear

FA Raffa & Clune, 1983
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Wild and scary! The intimidating last roof requires either a #4 Friend or Camalot in a shallow horizontal. Big moves, big falls, and lots of fun.

Climb a shallow dihedral to blocks. Angle right then back left over some flakes and blocks to a good stance in an alcove. Head up the right-facing corner, exiting left to the face for a few feet. At a good stance, traverse up and right, aiming for the narrow part of the large tiers. Pull over the first roof, then hand traverse left to a small bend. Pull the second roof, place some gear, and make powerful moves through the final, pointy roof.

To descend, rap or head left to No Man's Land.

Location

At a very shallow corner in between No Man's Land and Yellow Wall, just beneath the large triangle point in the roof above.

Protection

Small nuts to #2 Camalot (or #4 Friend for the crux). Mostly finger-sized pieces. Many shoulder or double slings.

For years this had an anchor just above the crux. In 2012, this anchor was missing, necessitating a traverse to No Man's Land. Rope drag was hell.