- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1- Climb the wide crack/chimney that is the split between Wet Dream Tower and Dream Catcher. Climb some soft sandy rock to a two bolt anchor on the left. 80'. 5.9
P1.5- Move anchor to top of the notch between Cream Dream and Dream Catcher. 40' 3rd class
P2- From the top of the notch climb the chimney using the crack on Dream Catcher for protection(fingers to hand sized gear). Place some gear and commit to Cream Dream Tower. A few slab moves get you to a two bolt anchor w/ chain. 80' 5.8.
P3- Traverse right across the slab for a few feet and climb a thin crack using thin cams and pins to a bolt. Mantel off the bolt and climb up the slab to three more bolts. Two bolt anchor w/ chain. 60' 5.7 A2.
Descent-
Rappel the route.
Location
The Chimney Route starts on the north side and climbs the wide crack/chimney that is the split between Wet Dream Tower and Dream Catcher.
Protection
Camalots-
Doubles .2-3
Single 4,5,6
1 set of stoppers
Offset aliens
A few angles, arrows, knife blades
Single 70m rope
Routes in Cream Dream Tower
- 1Chimney Route5.9Trad · Aid