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MapDescription
Locate a small roof on the cliff right side of MIDDLE FINGER WALL. Start directly under the roof.
Climb the face leading to the roof. Pull the roof and follow the right facing crack.
I would say the crux of this route is the face before the roof and then pulling the roof. Good holds above the roof [if you can't pull the roof you can bypass it from the left (harder) or right (easier)].
Location
This route is cliff right on MIDDLE FINGER WALL. Look for a noticeable spire with a small overhang near the bottom of the route and a right facing crack system.
Right of 'The Balcony'
Left of the gully leading to MIDDLE FINGER BACKSIDE, THE FORTRESS WALL, and GUMBIES ROOF.
Protection
North Carolina Trad Rack. Small to large gear. Eats up stoppers.
Natural Anchor at the top.