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Peak Mountain 3

Playing Hooky Var.

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Description

This interesting variation begins on the Schoolroom Direct crack (5.7 R) then joins the Schoolroom's second pitch (5.6). Rather than exiting right onto the face toward the second belay, however, continue up the corner, past dark, streaked rock and undercling/lieback leftward out the roof above. Belay in the vegetated gully using wires or small cams.

From the belay, traverse left on good edges to gain a thin crack; easy, crack-protected slab climbing leads to a short crux below an obvious roof. Undercling/jam the handcrack as it trends right out the overlap, latch the finishing jug, then rejoin the original Schoolroom just below the prominent Schoolroom Roof. Traverse left to finish at the tree or link it to the airy, A0 roof above. A great deal of gardening was required to establish this line; with a bit more traffic, this variation might provide a more direct alternative, especially if there are parties in line for Schoolroom.

Protection

A standard rack, with doubles in cams from tips to fingers.