Hocus Focus

Recently rebolted and cleaned (2015), this old formerly seldom done test piece should now be more appealing. The climbing certainly warrants more attempts. The route follows the thin vertical seam up the steep face, through a couple shallow overlaps to a short bulge and finishing mantel top-out.

Stick clip the first bolt and fire up in to this mega technical adventure. Coming straight off of a very close onsight attempt I have fresh perspective on this one. Right off the ground every foot placement counts. Small edges and smears tictac your feet up the vertical wall. Follow the seam using locks and sidepulls as well as making full use of micro edges hidden off to the sides. As it steepens at the top the holds get better but energy wanes. The grade on this one includes the top out so don't let off the gas until you have solved the tricky mantel move and topped out.

The thin vertical seam with bolts about midway along the crag. Starts above a small ledge.

Recently all rebolted (2015) - 6 SS glue-in bolts to anchor with rings. Stick clipping the first bolt highly recommended.