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Peak Mountain 3

Lightning Wind

FA James Garrett, September 17, 1995
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Named after a howling electrical storm,

Lightning Wind

climbs two pitches of solid, Ibex-style rock through a crack system and over a delicate, difficult face. The route is fluid and consistent until its very end when it exits at a committing finish and funky bulge.

P1

: Climb a thin, well protected crack to a small belay ledge at a two bolt anchor. Fun and straight forward. (5.9) 100 feet

P2

: Break right off the belay and onto a thin, tense face. Follow this up, passing bolts to a bulge and short, thin crack. A more wandering route, the second pitch finishes at a puzzling, horizontal crack/bulge protected by a bashie. Finish at a two bolt anchor on the summit. Great, then extremely funky at its final moves. (5.11) 90 feet

Descent

: Rappel the route.

Location

On the right side of the

Wind Buttress

,

Lightning Wind

starts just before the right gully.

In the recess, look left for an obvious crack.

Protection

A light, single set of small cams up to 2 inches, draws, and runners.