Leona

Seemingly overlooked for years, Leona takes the most obvious face up Conspiracy, just to the right of

Soma

.

Start under the first permadraw and work up a thoughtful sequence to gain a sloping ledge.  From here, rest up because you wont get much until the top.  Negotiating the third quickdraw may be tricky (kneebar helps), but not so bad once you figure it out.  From there, tackle a series of crimps, gastons, and boulder problems each increasing in difficulty until the final sequence culminates in a pumpy deadpoint to a jug.  Hang on for easier climbing for two more bolts to the chains.

Unlike your typical Clear Creek route, this one relies more on precision, beta-refining, and pump management.  Although the final boulder problem is the hardest (V7ish), its less of a stopper move, and more about having enough reserves in your tank.  There are multiple ways to do almost every sequence, so don't get too set on your beta.  This is a true sport climbers route on high quality rock.

Michael Hauck

spotted the line at the beginning of the pandemic, and equipping/working it together during that time provided some much needed relief to the craziness of the world in 2020.  And now we're happy to share it with our Colorado family!

The obvious line up the black and white face equipped with permadraws.

Permadraws