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Peak Mountain 3

Balrog

FA unknown
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Description

Short, but sustained for the length, with good rock.  Posting from distant memory (TRed it once over a decade ago; will update if needed when I next go to Middle Earth).  I think there's an ancient fixed pin, but this would be a very serious lead: I'm not sure any other gear can be placed - if so, stances would be very difficult - and the landing is pretty bad.  Maybe it was originally done as an aid climb.  Start off of a 2' rock at the base (ground start would be harder than 11), and do several burly and technical lieback moves.

Location

Across the gully from Anduril.  Can be accessed by scrambling from the uphill (east) end of the formation, or by leading any of the routes on the formation, such as Glamdring.

Protection

Trad anchor of small gear. I recall fiddling for a good ten minutes to get a decent set up of three pieces.