- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb Theoretically (or any of the other routes) to the large ledge and continue up the arete on the left side of the ledge to the large roof. Lean out right on jugs to clip the first bolt (may be hard to clip and very dangerous if not pre-hung). Once clipped, launch directly into the crux clearing the roof using the holds in the seam and some very bad (and blind) feet. It may help to be tall and flexible. Once standing above the roof pull a few more delicate moves past the second bolt to better holds on the ledge above. From here you can finish left on Wizard's Well, right on Last of the Wild One's (recommended) or above.
Because of the serious consequences of falling getting to the first bolt, I would recommend top-roping this first or at least pre-hanging the first draw. Also, as a side note, I gave this a bit of an upgrade compared to the existing guidebooks. Still might be a sandbag...
Location
Climb Theoretically to the ledge then aim for the two bolts above the center of the large roof.
Protection
Gear for Theoretically and 2 quickdraws. If finishing on Wizard's Well, you will need a few additional pieces as well.
Routes in Practice Rock
- 5Swenson's Theoradical5.12a/bTrad