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Peak Mountain 3

Voodoo Child

FA C Ruckgraber, S Sangdahl, J Baldwin, 1998
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"I stand up next to a mountain

And I chop it down with the edge of my hand"

Jimi Hendrix

15 years after being established, this worthwhile route still has some friable rock and a thought provoking flake.

Surmount the initial overhang, head upwards to the 3rd bolt, then rightwards under, on and over a flake that could add to the adventure. Some fun moves lead to the final headwall, which is steep, hard and sharp. This may be a little height-dependent if you are shorter than 5'6". It is a challenging onsight no matter your height.

Location

Voodoo Child is around the corner from

Monkey Porch

and

Sufferin' Succotash

. If approaching from above, it is easier to stay on the left bank (looking down) of the gully until you can cross back on a rocky ramp, then scramble up ledges to the base of the climb. There's a bolt for the belayer, clipping in would be a very good idea if the leader has any chance of falling before clipping bolt 1 on route. The ledges are not child/dog friendly but are a much pleasanter staging area than the base near

Monkey Porch

.

Protection

8 bolts, ring and chain at anchor.


Routes in The Wall of Voodoo