Real Men of Genius

Wow!

This is one of the best 11c sport routes I've ever done with wild sequences on very interesting stone.

This line starts just right (about 8 feet) of the prominent dihedral where

The Stranger

is located.

4 crux sections with 11ish moves await above. Start directly under the bolt to get the first hard move, a slab maneuver with tricky feet. You can also start a bit easier (10ish) by starting slightly right and then leaning left to clip.

The next difficulty is encountered at the third bolt - thin feet and hands to gain a jug.

Now for the real fun and the real crux - around bolt 5 you hit a steep roof with an extremely wild and somewhat dynamic sequence(Hint - heel hook left). Burl on through to a good rest under a massive huecoed roof.

From here, climb out the roof almost horizontally for about 20 feet on huge huecoes. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. The final crux is exiting this roof - pumpy but juggy.

It shares an anchor with

The Stranger

.

This has a beautiful setting and great crux sequences - plus unique stone and well-considered bolting - 3 stars for sure.

Good job by Tod and Nate.

About 14 bolts to anchors - use a 60m cord.