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Peak Mountain 3

Ripspeed

FA Greg Hand and Paul Heyliger, 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a good route, and like others here, it seems harder than the grade given in the book. The hardest part is at the bottom. There are almost no feet here, and the best hand holds are hard to reach unless you are tall. These holds are out left of the block you start off, but at least the first bolt is easy to clip at average height. There is a good rest ledge at the third bolt. Near the top is a smooth face with lots of lichen that seems difficult and a fun arete crack traverses to the anchors. You can skip the last few bolts and climb on the face to the left if you want to make the end easier.

Location

This route is the first route you encounter on the east face.  There are routes on both sides.  Move to the right and around the corner to the right from the center of the south face if you approach the rock this way.

Protection

9 bolts and a two bolt anchor.