We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Africa Flake

FA Rober Newsom, Dan Shively, Denise Barger 4/2006, Ground Up
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Ascend a fun 5.8 hand/finger crack to a ledge with a bolted belay. Alternatively, climb the first pitch of "Duct Taped Plum" to the same belay.

From here, lieback up the left facing flake/crack (5.7/5.8) until you can move right into the seam. Stem up the flared double seams (sustained 10a and BD C3's are nice to have here) until you're under the roof. Clip the first bolt and pull the roof (10a). Then, trend up and right across the face (5.9) clipping the second bolt as you go. Finish up the final cracks (5.9) on "Duct Taped Plum." An awesome pitch with some variability.

Rappel with a 60m to the first belay then one more to the ground.

Location

Africa Flake is on the left hand side of Cyanide Gully. Approach per "Silverback", then head west along the base of the cliffs. The route begins in a very weathered looking left facing corner just as the trail heads uphill. You can see the flake shaped like Africa on the 2nd pitch from the ground.

Protection

Standard rack with double cams for the final crack where "Africa Flake" merges with "Duct Taped Plum." Yet, if you happen to be a Sierra hardman (not me ;) except in my head) double cams would be overkill. Two shiny bolts protect the face crux. Bring thin gear for the double seams.