- Edit (TBD)
A Million Ways to Die
Description
A Million Ways to Die is right of Chimera and left of Hard Times. The name is a nod to the many ways that Camelback is poised to take your life; The heat, the cold, lightning, beez, cactus, snakes, bad bolts, loose rock, bad bolts in loose rock. Any person who frequents Camelback knows the drill. We initially set the route up with a very long first pitch (half a 70 meter rope) with a shorter steep second pitch and a easier third pitch. After leading the route we decided to add a glue in next to an old 3/8" button head on pitch one as a potential mid point anchor to take the edge off. Someday a chain could be added to allow the route to be rapped with a single 60 meter rope. Given the suspect rock on the route we decided to keep it somewhat safer than other lines on the wall. So, there are quite a few bolts. The route can be done in 3 or 4 pitches. If done in Three pitches: Pitch one 5.10c (15 bolts). Pitch two 5.10d (6 bolts). Pitch three 5.9+/10- bouldery start (3 bolts) and run out on easy ground to the anchor. If done in Four Pitches: Pitch one 5.8 (6 bolts), Pitch two 5.10c (9 bolts), Pitch three 5.10d (6 bolts), Pitch four 5.9+/10- (3 bolts). Currently all belay stations are on great ledges. A single 70 will allow a team to wrap to the entire route in two rappels. If the midpoint anchor on the first pitch gets a chain, then the route could be rappelled in 4 with a 60 meter. The route is rigged with glue in anchors top to bottom. The route is very new and dust and dirt abound from rock fall and the drill. I suggest someone take a dust broom and give it a sweep on the way down. Also, please wear a helmet, you never know, it's one of several ways you could die....
Location
The route is left of the large holes on Hard Times and right of the black water streak of Chimera.
Protection
I would suggest 16 draws and a 70 meter rope.
Routes in Gargoyle Wall
- 10A Million Ways to Die5.10cSport